Of high peaks, enchanted valleys and sweet and smoky prosciutto

Have I said before that Friuli is beautiful? I know I probably have, but I cannot help thinking so (and repeating myself), every time I see something I hadn't seen before.

Sunday sleep-ins are a thing of the past...almost. I don't know if it's an age thing, but these days spending my free time in bed (after I've already had my 'untouchable' 8-hour sleep) seems nothing but a waste of precious discovery time.

So with a tiny bit of organizing on the saturday, which resulted in a delicious and -later on- much needed pic-nic meal, we got up early on sunday morning, had a quicker-than-usual but super nutritious breakfast and drove off towards the mountains!

We live right in the middle of the region, where the plains are. We are lucky because we are about 1hr both from the sea and the mountains and more ore less the same from two foreign countries: Austria and Slovenia. It's very easy to get stuck for choice!

Our destination was a bit further away though, because it lies in a long deep valley which is divided from the plains by a mountain range which can be crossed only through one high pass. Considering the type of roads up there, we thought it would be quicker to simply head north and then west on the main roads. Total drive: 1h45'.

The Tita Piaz mountain shelter on the Pura Pass

The itinerary was this: first stop for a much-needed coffee at the 'Tita Piaz' rifugio (mountain shelter), then off to a 5hr hike from Pura pass up to the 'Cresta dell'uccel' (Bird's point) and back down again and eventually a drive down to Sauris (on the other side of the mountain) for a relaxing afternoon with yummy local food and drinks.

The drive up to the Pura pass was quite long but allowed us to enjoy the first stunning views, especially of the Amariana mountain near Tolmezzo: a pyramid-shaped mountain which seems drawn by the hand of a child!

Mt. Amariana near Tolmezzo

 We then happily stretched in the sun at the Tita Piaz rifugio, where we had a chat with the friendly girls there: the rifugio has got fourteen bedrooms and offers simple but genuine accomodation. We had our coffee, jumped back on the car and drove about 1km to the beginning of the track.

A gentian

The trail called Tiziana Weiss in memory of an important local climber, is of medium difficulty: you needen't be an expert but it takes a tad more than beginner legs to make it enjoyable, or at least a handy pair of walking sticks! It's really well marked and it includes many signs describing the local flora and alternative paths you can choose to take.

View from the Tiziana Weiss

When we finally reach the top we are in awe for the amazing view over all of the sorrounding mountains and onto the Sauris lake! Not to speak of the hundreds of gentians and millions of 'botton d'oro' (literally 'golden buttons', ie Trollius europaeus. A sort of huge buttercup). Satisfied with our ascent, we then also enjoy our much craved spelt salad...:-)

'Botton d'oro'

View of the lake of Sauris from the Cresta dell'uccel

360° view

 

One of the possible return paths

At the end of our hike our legs are starting to give up on us and we're dreaming (almost drooling really...) about the supa-dupa delicacies that the village of Sauris offers: its smoked prosciutto called 'Speck' , produced by Wolf (check out their website if you're into harming yourselves...you'll be craving their products instantly!) and the  i-can't-stop-drinking-it raw, unpasteurized beer in various flavours, including the smoked one, produced by the Zahrebeer brewery.

A platter of mouthwatering selection of cold meats, including the smoked prosciutto

During the next two weekends (13/14 and 20/21 July) in Sauris there will be the renouned 'Festival of the prosciutto' held yearly and involving of course plenty of tastings, as well as a market showcasing all the local artisan products from the wooden masks traditionally made for the Sauris carnival, to textiles still handwoven with love (and amazing prices too!!!) and then music, dances and shows to keep everybody entertained. I totally reccommend it!

Sauris houses

We couldn't help buying a piece of smoked prosciutto which I'm looking forward to slice through tomorrow and savour it together with some super sweet and juicy mellon (the orange type). This is a very common summer dish here and it works so well! You could try also non-smoked prosciutto for a sweeter pairing, either way...give it a go and let me know! I think you'll love it too...

Carnival masks of Sauris

More traditional houses

And if after seeing these pictures you too feel like you deserve a weekend in this charming valley, you can book a stay at one of the apartments/houses that make up the 'albergo diffuso', literally a 'scattered hotel': a totally Friulan invention! To know more about it, check out their website here. This type of stay is also offered in other areas of Friuli and, more recently, also in other areas of Italy.